At Green Salon Collective, we’re always inspired by individuals who are rethinking waste, materiality, and sustainability in bold and creative ways. In this interview, we speak with a final-year Textile Design student from Loughborough University whose innovative approach to sustainable design has led her to explore the fascinating intersection of textiles and unconventional materials—most notably, human hair. From early beginnings learning to sew with her grandmother to leading sustainability initiatives on campus, her journey is one of curiosity, courage, and a commitment to pushing boundaries within the textile industry.
Tell us a little bit about yourself and your textile journey?
I first learned how to sew around the age of 6, I went every week to my grandma’s house after school, where I used to have a sewing lesson. I then studied textiles at secondary school, and then art and design at A-level, choosing to specialize in this with textiles. I am now studying textile design at Loughborough University, and I am now in my third, and final year at university. I hadn’t really considered or explored sustainability in my work before, as I always thought I’d specialize in print, which was my focus in first and second year at university. I then joined Loughborough University’s Textile Sustainability Team in second year, where I had the opportunity to make an impact using all the knowledge around sustainability and ethical design, wider and across campus. Since then, I have promoted sustainability in numerous different ways, from holding an event around campus, showcasing one of my second-year projects which focused on sustainability and future- led design. I then came up with the idea to create a natural dyeing garden outside of our textile building which I proposed to the head of textile design, who then proposed the idea to the university. After getting the approval, we have now been reached out by Liberty’s, who would like to sponsor the idea, which will allow students to dye fabrics using plants etc. Once I was exposed to all of this, I began to embed the knowledge that I had learned into my own work, from exploring bioplastic to exploring different ways in which we can make fabric last longer than it does now. After this, I had the opportunity to get training and a certificate in Carbon Literacy and Climate Fresk. Alongside my studies, I then had the opportunity to speak at Loughborough University’s Speaking and Learning Conference, where I spoke about the sustainability work that I was embedding in my studies, as well as on campus.
How did your practice develop into what it is today, exploring textiles like hair?
During my final year project, I then came across the use of mycelium, and how this can be used for interiors, footwear, and clothing, and so much more! I immediately jumped at the opportunity to do this as my final year project, which was very risky, as I didn’t have much background knowledge in the area, but I knew that I might not have the opportunity to do it again. I took the knowledge that I had from the previous project, where I made my own biodegradable bioplastic yarn which could be knitted and knew that I wanted to explore mycelium with knit. My final year project has been fully driven by the mycelium, and the journey that it has taken me on, rather than me leading the project. I then explored different protein yarns to see which ones the mycelium liked best. After some testing, I found that it loved human hair! From this, I began to research whether there were any hair yarns out there, and this is how I came across the human hair and wool yarn!
What materials have you used in the past, and how did working with hair come about?
I came into university thinking that I was going to specialize and have a strong focus on print, as my work was always colour and shape based. But after learning about sustainability, I decided to risk it and do a complete 360 and challenge myself to go against what I know and are comfortable with, to try something new. I decided to explore bioplastic, and how it can be used to create sustainable and biodegradable materials which can then be used for clothing and so much more. But after finishing the unit, I felt I didn’t have a passion for it, and that I was more interested in the idea of material properties instead. From this, I decided to take a risk in my final year project, to explore mycelium, which was more about natural colours, with unpredicting shapes, which are less- controlled, which is completely different to my previous work.
What were your initial feelings around working with, touching, and using hair in your practice?
When I first started using human hair, horsehair, and other proteins, it felt very strange, the texture was very rough; and after showing my tutors and friends, the feedback was very mixed, some of my teachers refused to touch it once they heard what it had in it. But one day, I was looking at the back of one of my proteins filled petri dishes, and I saw how gorgeous the back of the dish was, and immediately fell in love with it as a print design. I then photographed it, and got the image printed onto silk fabric, and the feedback from my family, friends, and tutors, were extremely positive. When I told them what the print design was from, they were in shock, but started to look at mycelium and human hair in a different way, they began to ask questions and wanted to look and touch the petri dishes, it became less scary for them, once they saw the beauty in it.
How have you found using hair as a material? Have there been any challenges? How does it compare to other materials that you’ve used?
I have explored lots of different protein- based yarns and materials, but the one with the biggest response was the horsehair, human hair and seacell yarn. These seemed to grow a lot quicker, and larger, compared to the other yarns, such as wool.
One of the biggest challenges I have faced, is getting the yarn to knit. This is because the yarn is very thick, and even when using it on a chunky knit machine, it is very tough and corse to knit with. I am hoping to try and separate the yarn, to try and make it thinner, so that I can try and control the mycelium, and where it grows on the yarn.
What are your next steps in terms of using hair in your work?
Although I graduate in a few weeks, I have loved exploring with the yarn, and believe that this could be a yarn that could be used in clothing, and interiors etc. I would like to continue with my project after I graduate, but having a stronger focus on the yarn’s properties, and exploring what the yarn can do/ become by itself, without the mycelium.
We’re incredibly excited to see where this designer’s journey will take her next. Her willingness to experiment with unfamiliar materials like mycelium and human hair speaks to a new generation of textile designers who are unafraid to challenge norms and imagine alternative futures. As she graduates and continues to explore the potential of bio-based and waste-derived materials, we look forward to following her work and the impact it will no doubt have on both fashion and sustainability. It’s clear that this is just the beginning.
You can follow Merryn on Instagram at @m.rush_textiles